We arrived at Royal Island, a 1/2 square mile jungle-capped rock off the coast of French Guiana. There were no excursions, just a tender ride ashore where we could stroll around the hellhole that was once the crown jewel of the French penal system. This is a shot of nearby Devil’s Island, made famous in the movie Papillon. We saw ruins of the prison complex, a children’s cemetery, monkeys, peafowl, mosquitos, and profusely sweating shipmates. Thank you, Kaiser health nurse, for the briefing materials. We were armed with permethrin-dipped long pants, socks, and long sleeved shirts, plus a generous layer of picaridin bug dope. Overkill? I think not. A friendly French Guianian warned us not to feed the monkeys (they have rabies). Perfect spot for a prison…